Description
Ammonia is the main waste product produced by fish as a result of feeding. It can also be generated by the decay of uneaten food or decaying organic matter, such as plant leaves. It is invisible to the naked eye and its presence or absence cannot be determined by looking at the water alone. It is extremely toxic to the fish but is broken down into less toxic nitrite by the beneficial bacteria found in the filter. The desired ammonia (NH₃/NH₄⁺) level is 0 mg/l.
• In freshwater aquariums, ammonium (NH4⁺) is produced by the bacterial decomposition of uneaten food and plant matter as well as fish waste.
• Although ammonium is an important nutrient for plants, this is dependent on the pH level.
• If the pH level is above 7, it can convert to ammonia (NH3) which is then toxic for the fish.
• Above pH 7 even in small amounts of 0.2 mg/l, ammonia will still pose a threat to the fish with symptoms like rapid gill movements, nervous swimming, and loss of appetite.
• In higher concentrations from 1.0 mg/l and above, it can be lethal.
• If a level of 0.2 mg/l (ppm) of ammonia is detected, in an aquarium you can add some NT Labs Aquarium Filter Starter to remove this.
• If a level above 0.2mg/l (ppm) of ammonia is detected, a substantial water change must be carried out first. Change 25% of the volume for 0.5 – 1.0 mg/l (ppm) ammonia or 50% for ammonia levels above this. In an aquarium, add some NT Labs Aquarium Ammonia Remover (RC286). This is best placed in the filter unit.
• If any amount of ammonia is found, then it is important to check other vital water quality parameters, in particular pH, KH and nitrite.
Nitrite is produced by the beneficial bacteria in the aquarium and aquarium filters as they break down the harmful waste ammonia excreted by the fish. Nitrite can affect the health of fish but is not as toxic as ammonia, but it is still important to test regularly. The desired nitrite (NO₂) level is 0 mg/l.
• If the nitrite less than 0.25mg/l, test regularly as it may decrease as part of the filtering process. Removing any debris such as fish food or plant remains will help with this.
• Between 0.25mg/l and 0.5mg/l, add some NT Labs Aquarium Filter Start to reduce this.
• If the nitrite level is too high, (above 0.5mg/l), change 25% of the water volume for 1.0mg/l (ppm) nitrite and 50% for nitrite levels above this.
• If any level of nitrite is detected, NT Labs Ammonia Remover from the water.
• If you do record a nitrite level, then it is important to check other vital water quality parameters, especially pH and ammonia.
Nitrate is produced by the beneficial bacteria in the water and filters as they break down the fish’s toxic waste products (ammonia and nitrite). Nitrate is not typically toxic to fish, but excessively high levels (>100mg/l) can cause problems with growth. The desired nitrate (NO₃) level is less than 50mg/l in aquariums.
• As part of the nitrogen cycle in your aquarium, organic material that contains nitrogen such as fish excrements and uneaten food degrades and causes nitrite (NO₂) and finally nitrate (NO₃) to accumulate in the water.
• Nitrate in concentrations greater than 50 mg/l in aquaria promote strong algae growth.
• If the nitrate concentration is too high, a partial water change (to dilute the levels) should be carried out. Tip: test new water first as sometimes tap water levels can be high too. In addition, good plant growth helps to reduce excess nitrate.
• Additional nitrate reduction in the aquarium can be achieved by adding Tetra Nitrate Minus (RC071 or 072).
The pH (permanent hardness) describes one of the most important chemical properties of your water, the balance between acid and alkaline. All fish, plants, and micro-organisms react very sensitively to drastic and rapid changes to the pH value.
There is no definitive correct pH (permanent hardness) as different fish species have their preferred pH range.
For example, most aquariums the ideal pH value is between 7 and 8, but there are some exceptions:
• Discus typically prefer it to between 6.0 and 6.5, especially if you wish to breed them.
• General community aquariums between 7.0 and 8.0.
• Most African Rift Lake cichlids like it between 8.0 and 9.0.
When purchasing fish from your local aquatic retailer, always enquire as to the specific water requirements of the fish you are buying.
If you do need to adjust the pH of your aquarium, it is vital to do this slowly to not shock the fish. Change no more than 0.5 pH units per 2 days. Providing your tap water is of suitable pH, substantial water changes can correct a dangerous pH level. It is also important to check the KH of the aquarium. Use of pH adjusters, such as KH Up – pH Stabiliser will raise the pH caused by soft or aged water. For fish that live in soft, acid water use bogwood to gently lower the pH and soften the water.
KH is the buffering capacity of water in your pond preventing sudden pH changes. KH, also known as “total alkalinity” or “carbonate hardness”, is a measure of the buffering capacity of the water in your aquarium. The buffering capacity refers to how well it can resist changes in pH. This test kit measures KH in dKH (where one dKH = 17.8 ppm as CaCO3). It is essential to maintain a minimum KH level of at least 4 dKH at all times. A KH of between 6 and 8 dKH is more desirable.
If your KH level is incorrect, check the KH level of your tap water. If the level is above 6 dKH, then regular water changes should keep the KH value in the aquarium topped up at a reasonable level. If the KH value of your tap water is below 6 dKH, you will need to add a KH buffer such as NT Labs Aquarium KH Up – pH Stabiliser.
GH is the measure of the total mineral content (calcium and magnesium) of the water. Water hardness lies on a spectrum between ‘soft water’ or ‘hard water’ depending on the amount of dissolved minerals: the more minerals present, the greater the hardness. Hard water is responsible for the build-up of limescale. Minerals are essential for the health of plants and fish. This test kit measures GH in dGH (where one degree = 17.8 ppm as CaCO3).
The correct GH depends on the type of fish being kept.
• Soft water aquarium species, aim for a GH of around 3 to 6 °GH.
• Hard water aquarium species, 10 to 15 dGH is the correct range.
If your GH level is incorrect, test the GH of your tap water. The GH of tap water is determined by whether you live in a hard or soft water area. If the water is too hard for the fish being kept, alternative waters can be used, such as reverse osmosis or rainwater, to lower the GH. To increase the GH for aquarium fish, Ciano GH will raise the levels or calcium carbonate rocks (like ocean rock) can be used to provide a continual source of GH minerals.
NT Labs Aquarium Lab Multi-Test Kit will help you understand the importance of water quality. By having the correct parameters and good water quality, it will help your fish and plants live longer, healthier lives.
Highly accurate, the NT Labs Aquarium Lab Multi-Test Kit contains liquid kits which work by changing the colour of a water sample in relation to the concentration of a given substance. Simply compare the colour of the sample to the easy-to-read colour charts or count the number of drops it takes to alter the colour of the sample.
All the tests are liquid drop tests from a calibrated dropper bottle, so all the drops are the same size. Just add your aquarium water to the test tube and count the drops needed. The back of the box details clear pictorial instructions so you can see what to do from the start. A set of colour coded stickers is provided to label both the test tubes and test tube lids, so you always conduct the same test in the same test tube avoiding contamination. Full instructions are included detailing optimum levels and suggestions for correction, along with an integrated test tube rack.
Suitable for tropical and coldwater aquariums. For brackish set ups, we recommend you use NT Labs Marine Labs Test Kits to obtain the most accurate results.
